Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina

Autores
Delgado, Ana Laura; Vitale, Alejandro José; Perillo, Gerardo Miguel E.; Piccolo, Maria Cintia
Año de publicación
2012
Idioma
inglés
Tipo de recurso
artículo
Estado
versión publicada
Descripción
Coastal geomorphology is significantly influenced by waves because they are a major agent in removing and transporting sediments. Furthermore, any kind of human coastal activity is influenced by waves. Consequently, it is essential to know about the wave distribution of the coastal areas. The aim of this study was to analyze the waves at Monte Hermoso and Pehue´n Co coastal zone, Buenos Aires, Argentina. The study was based on data obtained from an oceanographic tower located on the coast of the study area, between April 2007 and July 2009, analyzed annually and seasonally. The major occurrence and frequency of the significant wave heights (Hs) and the period of significant waves (Ts) were studied. The main percentages of Hs occurred between 0.25 and 1.5 m and were related to Ts between 0 and 16 seconds. The highest Hs rates were observed in spring, whereas the lowest ones in winter. Theoretical distribution probabilities were applied and the Weibull distribution was the most appropriate fit for the data, presenting a shape parameter of 0.82 and a scale parameter of 1.73. Joint probability analysis of Hs and Ts showed that summer and spring have similar patterns with larger probabilities of locally generated waves, whereas, contrary to what it is normally expected, winter has the larger percentage of swells because of the large number of calm-wind days. Finally, the Ursell number and the flux intensity parameter were obtained to demonstrate that the waves have been able to transport the typical sediments at the tower site toward the sea.
Fil: Delgado, Ana Laura. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; Argentina
Fil: Vitale, Alejandro José. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; Argentina. Universidad Nacional del Sur; Argentina
Fil: Perillo, Gerardo Miguel E.. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; Argentina. Universidad Nacional del Sur; Argentina
Fil: Piccolo, Maria Cintia. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; Argentina. Universidad Nacional del Sur; Argentina
Materia
Wave Distribution
Incidence Wave Analysis
Weibull
Nivel de accesibilidad
acceso abierto
Condiciones de uso
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/ar/
Repositorio
CONICET Digital (CONICET)
Institución
Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas
OAI Identificador
oai:ri.conicet.gov.ar:11336/20096
Acceder
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oai_identifier_str oai:ri.conicet.gov.ar:11336/20096
network_acronym_str CONICETDig
repository_id_str 3498
network_name_str CONICET Digital (CONICET)
spelling Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, ArgentinaDelgado, Ana LauraVitale, Alejandro JoséPerillo, Gerardo Miguel E.Piccolo, Maria CintiaWave DistributionIncidence Wave AnalysisWeibullhttps://purl.org/becyt/ford/1.5https://purl.org/becyt/ford/1Coastal geomorphology is significantly influenced by waves because they are a major agent in removing and transporting sediments. Furthermore, any kind of human coastal activity is influenced by waves. Consequently, it is essential to know about the wave distribution of the coastal areas. The aim of this study was to analyze the waves at Monte Hermoso and Pehue´n Co coastal zone, Buenos Aires, Argentina. The study was based on data obtained from an oceanographic tower located on the coast of the study area, between April 2007 and July 2009, analyzed annually and seasonally. The major occurrence and frequency of the significant wave heights (Hs) and the period of significant waves (Ts) were studied. The main percentages of Hs occurred between 0.25 and 1.5 m and were related to Ts between 0 and 16 seconds. The highest Hs rates were observed in spring, whereas the lowest ones in winter. Theoretical distribution probabilities were applied and the Weibull distribution was the most appropriate fit for the data, presenting a shape parameter of 0.82 and a scale parameter of 1.73. Joint probability analysis of Hs and Ts showed that summer and spring have similar patterns with larger probabilities of locally generated waves, whereas, contrary to what it is normally expected, winter has the larger percentage of swells because of the large number of calm-wind days. Finally, the Ursell number and the flux intensity parameter were obtained to demonstrate that the waves have been able to transport the typical sediments at the tower site toward the sea.Fil: Delgado, Ana Laura. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; ArgentinaFil: Vitale, Alejandro José. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; Argentina. Universidad Nacional del Sur; ArgentinaFil: Perillo, Gerardo Miguel E.. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; Argentina. Universidad Nacional del Sur; ArgentinaFil: Piccolo, Maria Cintia. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; Argentina. Universidad Nacional del Sur; ArgentinaCoastal Education & Research Foundation2012-07info:eu-repo/semantics/articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionhttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501info:ar-repo/semantics/articuloapplication/pdfapplication/pdfapplication/pdfhttp://hdl.handle.net/11336/20096Delgado, Ana Laura; Vitale, Alejandro José; Perillo, Gerardo Miguel E.; Piccolo, Maria Cintia; Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina; Coastal Education & Research Foundation; Journal Of Coastal Research; 28; 4; 7-2012; 843-8520749-0208CONICET DigitalCONICETenginfo:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/doi/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-10-00136.1info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/url/http://www.jcronline.org/doi/abs/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-10-00136.1?code=cerf-site&journalCode=coasinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccesshttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/ar/reponame:CONICET Digital (CONICET)instname:Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas2025-10-15T15:16:16Zoai:ri.conicet.gov.ar:11336/20096instacron:CONICETInstitucionalhttp://ri.conicet.gov.ar/Organismo científico-tecnológicoNo correspondehttp://ri.conicet.gov.ar/oai/requestdasensio@conicet.gov.ar; lcarlino@conicet.gov.arArgentinaNo correspondeNo correspondeNo correspondeopendoar:34982025-10-15 15:16:17.235CONICET Digital (CONICET) - Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicasfalse
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina
title Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina
spellingShingle Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina
Delgado, Ana Laura
Wave Distribution
Incidence Wave Analysis
Weibull
title_short Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina
title_full Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina
title_fullStr Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina
title_full_unstemmed Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina
title_sort Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Delgado, Ana Laura
Vitale, Alejandro José
Perillo, Gerardo Miguel E.
Piccolo, Maria Cintia
author Delgado, Ana Laura
author_facet Delgado, Ana Laura
Vitale, Alejandro José
Perillo, Gerardo Miguel E.
Piccolo, Maria Cintia
author_role author
author2 Vitale, Alejandro José
Perillo, Gerardo Miguel E.
Piccolo, Maria Cintia
author2_role author
author
author
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Wave Distribution
Incidence Wave Analysis
Weibull
topic Wave Distribution
Incidence Wave Analysis
Weibull
purl_subject.fl_str_mv https://purl.org/becyt/ford/1.5
https://purl.org/becyt/ford/1
dc.description.none.fl_txt_mv Coastal geomorphology is significantly influenced by waves because they are a major agent in removing and transporting sediments. Furthermore, any kind of human coastal activity is influenced by waves. Consequently, it is essential to know about the wave distribution of the coastal areas. The aim of this study was to analyze the waves at Monte Hermoso and Pehue´n Co coastal zone, Buenos Aires, Argentina. The study was based on data obtained from an oceanographic tower located on the coast of the study area, between April 2007 and July 2009, analyzed annually and seasonally. The major occurrence and frequency of the significant wave heights (Hs) and the period of significant waves (Ts) were studied. The main percentages of Hs occurred between 0.25 and 1.5 m and were related to Ts between 0 and 16 seconds. The highest Hs rates were observed in spring, whereas the lowest ones in winter. Theoretical distribution probabilities were applied and the Weibull distribution was the most appropriate fit for the data, presenting a shape parameter of 0.82 and a scale parameter of 1.73. Joint probability analysis of Hs and Ts showed that summer and spring have similar patterns with larger probabilities of locally generated waves, whereas, contrary to what it is normally expected, winter has the larger percentage of swells because of the large number of calm-wind days. Finally, the Ursell number and the flux intensity parameter were obtained to demonstrate that the waves have been able to transport the typical sediments at the tower site toward the sea.
Fil: Delgado, Ana Laura. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; Argentina
Fil: Vitale, Alejandro José. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; Argentina. Universidad Nacional del Sur; Argentina
Fil: Perillo, Gerardo Miguel E.. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; Argentina. Universidad Nacional del Sur; Argentina
Fil: Piccolo, Maria Cintia. Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas. Centro Científico Tecnológico Conicet - Bahía Blanca. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía. Universidad Nacional del Sur. Instituto Argentino de Oceanografía; Argentina. Universidad Nacional del Sur; Argentina
description Coastal geomorphology is significantly influenced by waves because they are a major agent in removing and transporting sediments. Furthermore, any kind of human coastal activity is influenced by waves. Consequently, it is essential to know about the wave distribution of the coastal areas. The aim of this study was to analyze the waves at Monte Hermoso and Pehue´n Co coastal zone, Buenos Aires, Argentina. The study was based on data obtained from an oceanographic tower located on the coast of the study area, between April 2007 and July 2009, analyzed annually and seasonally. The major occurrence and frequency of the significant wave heights (Hs) and the period of significant waves (Ts) were studied. The main percentages of Hs occurred between 0.25 and 1.5 m and were related to Ts between 0 and 16 seconds. The highest Hs rates were observed in spring, whereas the lowest ones in winter. Theoretical distribution probabilities were applied and the Weibull distribution was the most appropriate fit for the data, presenting a shape parameter of 0.82 and a scale parameter of 1.73. Joint probability analysis of Hs and Ts showed that summer and spring have similar patterns with larger probabilities of locally generated waves, whereas, contrary to what it is normally expected, winter has the larger percentage of swells because of the large number of calm-wind days. Finally, the Ursell number and the flux intensity parameter were obtained to demonstrate that the waves have been able to transport the typical sediments at the tower site toward the sea.
publishDate 2012
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2012-07
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
info:ar-repo/semantics/articulo
format article
status_str publishedVersion
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv http://hdl.handle.net/11336/20096
Delgado, Ana Laura; Vitale, Alejandro José; Perillo, Gerardo Miguel E.; Piccolo, Maria Cintia; Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina; Coastal Education & Research Foundation; Journal Of Coastal Research; 28; 4; 7-2012; 843-852
0749-0208
CONICET Digital
CONICET
url http://hdl.handle.net/11336/20096
identifier_str_mv Delgado, Ana Laura; Vitale, Alejandro José; Perillo, Gerardo Miguel E.; Piccolo, Maria Cintia; Preliminary analysis of waves in the coastal zone of Monte Hermoso and Pehuén Co, Argentina; Coastal Education & Research Foundation; Journal Of Coastal Research; 28; 4; 7-2012; 843-852
0749-0208
CONICET Digital
CONICET
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv eng
language eng
dc.relation.none.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/doi/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-10-00136.1
info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/url/http://www.jcronline.org/doi/abs/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-10-00136.1?code=cerf-site&journalCode=coas
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/ar/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/ar/
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
application/pdf
application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Coastal Education & Research Foundation
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Coastal Education & Research Foundation
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:CONICET Digital (CONICET)
instname:Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas
reponame_str CONICET Digital (CONICET)
collection CONICET Digital (CONICET)
instname_str Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas
repository.name.fl_str_mv CONICET Digital (CONICET) - Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas
repository.mail.fl_str_mv dasensio@conicet.gov.ar; lcarlino@conicet.gov.ar
_version_ 1846083310947663872
score 13.22299

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